Jef Montes, founder of Studio Adaptive Skins, develops new materials and methods that allow external influences such as the weather to impact his design. For his Marinero project, he worked with various knowledge partners in Europe to develop yarns that react strongly to the environment. Left outside for an extended period, his woven and knitted garments were tailored by the weather into their final, often surprising shape.
Montes started developing his fabrics in the TextielLab in 2014. The project stagnated when the available yarns proved inadequate for his purposes. With the help of various grants, he was able to research and develop adaptive yarns with unique properties that allow the filaments to change their shape when exposed to the weather. He used the yarns to develop 33 tunic-like dresses, each made with different materials and techniques. The dresses were then displayed on mannequins and placed outside. The effect of rain, wind and changes in temperature caused the fabric to deform and mutate, sculpting itself around the wearer’s body.
Because Montes’ yarns were new to the product developers in the TextielLab, the developers first tested whether the yarns were suitable for the available machines. After some adjustments to the yarns, the dresses were woven and knitted in different compositions. Over a period of two weeks, Montes and the product developers tested all the yarns and combinations and selected the final dresses. This timeframe and the close collaboration with the product developers in the lab gave Montes the freedom to experiment with various structures and shapes.
Arnhem-based designer Jef Montes has a passion for responsive materials, which he develops and uses in wearable pieces as well as buildings and interiors. Through Studio Adaptive Skins, he also offers a broad range of adaptive textiles and services to other companies. Sustainability and upcycling are a key part of his creative process, and zero waste is the norm. Montes is constantly looking for ways to rethink the production system.
